A Gothic Rocket of Stone Commemorating Scotland's Storyteller
When Sir Walter Scott died at his Borders estate of Abbotsford in September 1832, Scotland mourned not merely a celebrated writer, but the cultural ambassador who had single-handedly reshaped how the world viewed Scottish history, clan identity, and literature. Determined to erect a monument worthy of the creator of the Waverley Novels, Edinburgh civic leaders organized an open architectural competition.
The winning design was entered under the mysterious pseudonym “John Morvo”—the name of the medieval French master mason inscribed upon the ruins of Melrose Abbey. To the astonishment of the judges, the architect was revealed to be George Meikle Kemp: an unassuming, self-taught carpenter, mason, and draftsman from the Moorfoot Hills who had walked through England, France, and Belgium on foot to sketch Europe's greatest Gothic cathedrals.
Kemp conceived a 61.1-meter (200 feet 6 inches) Victorian Gothic spire of Craigleith sandstone, decorated with 68 individual carved stone statues representing characters from Scott's novels, Scottish monarchs, and national poets. At its base, beneath four soaring ribbed arches, rests Sir John Steell's monumental statue of Scott wrapped in his shepherd's plaid with his faithful deerhound Maida, carved from a single 30-ton block of Italian Carrara marble.
“Notice how Kemp integrated elements from Melrose Abbey into the monument's crown: the flying buttresses, pierced quatrefoils, and tiered pinnacles recreate a medieval abbey tower rising freely into the sky without a surrounding cathedral body.”
At a Glance
- Ground Viewing: 100% Free daily in gardens
- Height: 61.1 Meters (200 Feet 6 Inches)
- Total Steps: 287 Spiral stone steps to apex
- Centerpiece Statue: 30-ton Carrara marble by Steell
- Carved Statues: 68 Waverley characters & monarchs
- Tower Climb Fee: £8 Adult / £6 Child
Historic Sandstone Patina
The dark hue comes from 19th-century railway soot trapped in Craigleith stone's natural shale oils. Conservators preserved this blackened finish as an authentic badge of Edinburgh's industrial heritage.
Architectural Wonder
George Meikle Kemp's self-taught masterpiece, merging Melrose Abbey Gothic motifs into a 61-meter rocket spire soaring over central Edinburgh.
- • 61.1-meter Craigleith stone spire
- • Four open-air viewing balconies
- • Flying buttresses and Gothic pinnacles
Literary Pantheon
Home to 68 carved statues of Scott's characters—from Rob Roy and Meg Merrilies to Jeanie Deans—celebrating the birth of the historical novel.
- • 30-ton Carrara marble central statue
- • 68 character and monarch stone figures
- • First gallery Museum Room exhibition
Skyline Adventure
A thrilling 287-step spiral climb rewarding visitors with an intimate 360-degree panorama sweeping from Castle Rock to the Kingdom of Fife.
- • 287 spiral stone steps to apex
- • 360-degree horizon observation gallery
- • Unmatched Princes Street aerial views
10 Key Sculptures & Architectural Features
From Sir John Steell's colossal Carrara marble statue of Scott and Maida to Rob Roy, Meg Merrilies, and Jeanie Deans. Select any feature below to inspect curatorial notes.
Sir Walter Scott & Deerhound Maida (Central Marble)
Carved from a single colossal 30-ton block of pure white Carrara marble, this monumental seated sculpture portrays Sir Walter Scott holding a quill pen and notebook, wrapped in a shepherd's tartan plaid. At his feet rests his favorite staghound, Maida, looking up devotedly at his master.
“Steell traveled personally to the marble quarries of Carrara in Tuscany to select the stone block. Queen Victoria was so impressed upon viewing the finished statue in 1846 that she knighted Steell at the Royal Scottish Academy.”
The centerpiece of the entire memorial, capturing Scotland's literary giant with intimate affection and classical majesty.
The Four Viewing Galleries
Understand the elevation, step count, and view profiles across each gallery level as the Gothic spire narrows into the sky.
First Gallery & Museum Room
The first stopping point on the climb. Step into the enclosed Museum Room with its vibrant stained glass windows, historic prints, and exhibits explaining Scott's novels, before stepping onto the wide exterior balcony.
- Sir John Steell's marble statue seen from above
- Stained glass windows depicting Scottish city and royal arms
- Historical exhibition on Sir Walter Scott and George Meikle Kemp
- Level stone viewing balcony overlooking Princes Street
Second Gallery Promenade
As the spire narrows, the spiral staircase becomes steeper and tighter. The second gallery wraps completely around the Gothic core, offering magnificent vantage points over Princes Street shoppers and the Old Town tenements.
- Eye-level views of the first tier carved character statues
- Panoramic views across East Princes Street Gardens and The Balmoral
- Dramatic view down into the sunken Waverley railway canyon
- Direct architectural appreciation of Kemp's flying buttresses
Third Aerial Gallery
High above the tree canopies of Princes Street Gardens. The air grows noticeably brisk as you emerge onto this narrow, open-air walkway, surrounded by Gothic finials and spires reaching toward the clouds.
- Aerial view looking down onto the roof of the Scottish National Gallery
- Full view of the volcanic crags of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags
- Carved pinnacles and grotesque gargoyles within arm's reach
- Breathtaking open-air altitude sensation
Fourth Apex Observatory
The pinnacle of the monument. Reached by an exhilarating, very narrow spiral corkscrew staircase, the top gallery is an intimate circular balcony that accommodates just a few visitors at a time, providing the most dramatic skyline vista in Scotland.
- The highest viewing point in central Edinburgh
- Complete 360-degree unobstructed horizon panorama
- Clear line of sight to the Kingdom of Fife and the Forth Bridges
- Achievement certificate granted upon completion of the climb
Self-Guided Monument Circuits
Choose between climbing all 287 steps to the apex or an unhurried ground-level literary walk examining the 68 carved stone character statues.
The 287-Step Spire Climb Experience
Ascend all four viewing galleries to the apex of the world's tallest monument to a writer.
Inspect the 30-ton Carrara marble statue of Scott and Maida.
Browse exhibits on Scott's novels and Kemp's architecture.
Take in the bustling Princes Street streetscape from above.
Marvel at the stone flying buttresses and gargoyles.
Savor the 360-degree panorama of Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth.
The Waverley Literary & Statuary Tour
A ground-level exploration inspecting the 68 carved statues and Gothic masonry details without climbing the stairs.
Learn how a self-taught carpenter won the national competition.
Examine John Rhind's detailed broadsword carving.
Observe the dramatic wind-blown hair of the Galloway matriarch.
Reflect on Scott's heroine of truth and sisterly devotion.
Capture the full 61-meter Gothic rocket silhouette against the sky.
Planning Your Monument Climb
Essential practical information covering tickets, spiral staircase safety, weather closures, photography guidelines, and nearby luggage storage.
Opening Hours
Open daily from 10:00 to 17:00 (last entry to tower climb at 16:30). Ground viewing in East Princes Street Gardens is accessible 07:00 until dusk.
Tickets & Pricing
Tower climb tickets are £8 for adults and £6 for children and concessions. Tickets can be purchased at the monument entrance kiosk on Princes Street.
Location & Transit
Located on Princes Street beside the Waverley Bridge entrance. Directly opposite Edinburgh Waverley Station and Princes Street tram stops.
Spiral Stairs Safety
287 spiral stone steps become progressively narrower toward the apex. Not recommended for visitors with severe vertigo, heart issues, or claustrophobia.
Photography Rules
Personal hand-held photography is warmly permitted on all galleries. Tripods and large selfie sticks are prohibited inside the narrow stairwells.
Weather Closures
For visitor safety, upper viewing balconies may be temporarily closed during gale-force winds, heavy lightning storms, or icy winter mornings.
Frequently Asked Questions
Clear answers to the most common questions regarding tickets, the 287-step climb, architect George Meikle Kemp, and the monument's charred stone patina.